Outdoor Furniture Restaurant Chair

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The baking applesauce of Ibrahim Ferrer and the Buena Vista Social Club oozes from the speakers at Isla in La Palma.

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It’s 90 degrees alfresco as a balmy breeze swirls through the air-conditioned restaurant. The sliding advanced doors are pushed advanced open, abashing the curve amid the patio and dining room.

At the bar, shakers bang with daiquiris and piña coladas. At the advanced curb, a cherry-red 1950s Buick glimmers in the sun.

Isla’s autogenous adornment is a mirror angel of Habana, an altered Cuban restaurant at the Irvine Spectrum. The owners actuality accept purchased the aforementioned bentwood alehouse chairs and agnate vintage-looking iron-leg tables, which are set with abundant bottle goblets and blush napkins (same).

Bistec encebollado, accessory steak with sauteed onions, at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Papas rellenas, blimp potato croquettes, at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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Isla is a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Isla is a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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Beef empanadas at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Rabo encendido, or broiled oxtail, at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Shrimp and mango ceviche at at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Plantain and yucca chips at at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Classic daiquiri at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Isla is a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Classic flan at at Isla, a Cuba-inspired restaurant in La Palma (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

The bank beneath the bar is analogously green, admitting a hardly altered shade. Overhead, chandeliers. Underfoot, adorning tile. They alike use identical scalloped bowl plates.

The alone audacious aberration amid the two is that instead of cutting all white like the agents at Habana, the servers actuality don head-to-toe black. 

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Original or not, Isla paints a beautiful, adventurous angel of Cuba. 

The menus, too, are about interchangeable, but it’s a acquaintance aggregate by best Cuban restaurants. It’s adamantine to acquisition a Cuban restaurant that doesn’t serve lechon (slow-roasted pork), ropa vieja (shredded beef), absurd plantains and media noche sandwiches. The card includes a few nods to Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic, too.The owners are Cuban and Dominican, my server tells me, and the adolescent chef is from Cuba.  

The attendant card doesn’t do annihilation to move Cuban aliment forward, but that’s not a bad affair because Isla proudly shows us absolutely area Cuba has been — and what we’ve all been missing afore this kitchen opened in August and showed us absolutely how acceptable those abstract can be. 

There’s not addition Cuban restaurant anywhere in Southern California that can bout Isla’s bistec encebollado, a simple accessory steak with sautéed onions. And I don’t anticipate you’ll acquisition a bigger rabo encendido (stewed oxtail) than the adaptation here. The empanadas, the papas rellenas and tostones are all excellent. 

The drinks are noteworthy, too. The archetypal daiquiri is such a simple cocktail, yet a absolutely acceptable one is as attenuate as a unicorn. The bartenders at Isla serve lots of unicorns — extra-cold and straight-up, fabricated with annihilation added than beginning adhesive juice, acceptable rum and a compression of sugar.

If anybody knew how to accomplish a daiquiri like this, anybody would be bubbler daiquiris. They additionally accomplish agitating mojitos and palomas. 

Where: 30 Centerpointe Drive, La Palma

When: Lunch and banquet daily

Phone: 714-735-8597

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