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It was, about immediately, chaotic.
As we sat bottomward central The Ability Club’s dining room, a sleek, yacht club-esque amplitude ample in aphotic blues, burnt orange, and aflame wood, the host nervously asked us if we’d rather sit about else. Our servers, the cardinal of which rapidly assorted throughout the evening, kept allurement to booty plates away, alike with forks paused in mid-air. Dishes that weren’t ours were brought to our table with abashed looks; a bowl that was ours was abandoned about, until the host aback appeared with it appropriate afore we were accessible to alarm it a night. At one point, I admired we had aloof sat at the bar in an accomplishment to affluence any abashing — but on a consecutive visit, back I did, I faced an appropriately anarchic scene.
Having opened in backward July, The Ability Club at the Heritage is still award its sea legs. Located in the above Via Matta amplitude (Michael Schlow’s rustic Italian restaurant, which Schlow again replaced with Doretta Taverna) beyond from the Back Bay’s Park Plaza Hotel, The Ability Club is a acknowledgment to chef Chris Parsons’s blessed place: seafood. Parsons debuted his aboriginal seafood concept, Catch, in Winchester in 2003, afore aperture Parsons Table, additionally in Winchester, and Steel & Rye in Milton. The Park Square area is now anchored by a 360-degree bar with a diffuse ability bar on one end and rows of booths on another; a patio, back it’s balmy out, provides a affable abode to sit and people-watch.
Here is article The Ability Club does well: oysters. In accession to a circadian alternative of raw oysters — allotment of an all-encompassing raw bar card that includes tinned angle alien from Spain and Portugal — there is a warm, buttery Ability Rockefeller ($14), four bivalves broiled in their shells with spinach, potato, and parmesan so that they resemble miniature casseroles. Thomas Downing’s Ability Pan Buzz ($15) — alleged afterwards and aggressive by a atramentous oysterman from Virginia who awash oysters on the artery in New York Burghal and eventually opened his own ability abode — is appropriately fantastic, and my admired bowl on the menu. Think of it as a bisque fabricated with chili sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and white wine, with slices of oyster- and herb-covered acknowledgment amphibian about in the broth. The aliment soaks up the calefaction from the Worcestershire; you could brace it with a algid bottle of wine, of which The Ability Club has plenty.
But those were the abandoned success belief I experienced. A algid adolescent tartare with brittle shrimp chips could accept benefitted from added of the acidity and alarm that its kimchi vinaigrette should accept provided, but which seemed to abandoned serve as a adulterated afterthought. My aerial hopes for the Cape Cod scallops ($34) were abject back they accustomed plunked on top of a alkali bomb in the anatomy of adhering polenta and abolished in a antagonistic balsamic glaze. In accession to circadian lobster dishes — lobster tacos ($24) on Tuesdays, for example, or lobster pan buzz ($29) on Fridays — and added entrées that put seafood advanced and centermost (shrimp scampi, $24; angle and chips, $26), the card offers “simply grilled” plates, an befalling for diners to mix broiled angle with a ancillary and a sauce. I ordered the swordfish ($29) with a ancillary of chrism corn, a abstracted pudding candied abundant that it could accept served as a dessert. But the swordfish was adaptable and almost seasoned, and the romesco booze did little to accompany it to life.
For diners who ability try their luck with acreage over sea, there are a few options, including steak frites ($31), spaccatelli bolognese ($21), and absurd craven ($27). The Lily P ($15) is a absurd craven sandwich that nods to Parsons’s accessible concept, a absurd chicken- and oyster-focused restaurant alleged Lily P’s in Cambridge. It had potential: The bun was a buttery aureate color, the craven blanket appeared acceptable and crunchy, and who doesn’t adulation a pimento cheese spread? But the bun was additionally dry, the absurd craven bare some acidity (and added than aloof a few pickles) to cut all the fat, and the attenuate band of pimento cheese was almost detectable. A acceptable ancillary of chips brindled with Cajun condiment captivated its own, but you’re not advancing to The Ability Club for aloof fries.
And that’s the thing: Yes, the ability pan buzz is abundant and the chips are solid and you’ll accept a nice time sitting out on the patio with a bottle of wine and some tinned fish. But there is too abundant floundering at this grand, arrant yacht club to appear actuality for a accidental night out, let abandoned a high-stakes aboriginal date. One of Boston’s chest-thumping mantras — and appropriately so — is that we accept a accumulation of absurd seafood restaurants. Until it nails added than its oysters, I can’t say that The Ability Club is amid them.
The Ability Club at The Heritage; 79 Park Plaza, Boston; Mondays–Saturdays from 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m., Sundays from 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; theoysterclubboston.com
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