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Doxa, one of the best important but abundantly unsung antecedents in the history of diving watches, acclaimed its 130th ceremony in 2019 with the absolution of an acutely bound (13 pieces) gold-cased adaptation of its advocate SUB 200 T.Graph. Now the Swiss cast follows it up with accession appropriate copy added ill-fitted to its tool-watch pedigree, housed in a stainless animate case and powered by a best Valjoux 7734 movement.
The watch is a abreast booty on the aboriginal T.Graph, which debuted in 1969 on the heels of its groundbreaking predecessor, the SUB 300 Professional from 1967. The closing watch was the aboriginal purpose-designed divers’ watch advised for the accepted public, the aboriginal to absorb a alternating bezel with a no-decompression dive table, and the aboriginal to affection an orange dial. (Doxa acclaimed the 50th ceremony of this archetypal with a appropriate re-edition in 2017.) The T.Graph continued the SUB abstraction with the accession of a alarm function. The avant-garde adaptation characteristic barrel-shaped case measures 43 mm and boasts baptize attrition of 200 meters. Under a scratch-resistant, non-reflective azure clear the ablaze orange punch has a bicompax arrangement, with subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock — for 30 alarm account and active seconds, appropriately — a date window at 6 o’clock, and black-painted, baton-shaped hands. These hands, forth with the triangle admit at the tip of the axial alarm abnormal duke and the black-painted activated hour indices, are advised with a beige-colored “Light Old Radium” Super-LumiNova for accuracy in the dark.
Like its antecedent of a half-century ago, the watch’s patented, unidirectional alternating bezel combines a dive calibration (in minutes) with a no-decompression calibration (in meters), enabling the buyer to account dive times. At 12 o’clock, a Super-LumiNova-filled dot provides acclimatization for diving. Inside the case, abaft a solid animate caseback engraved with a apprehension of a sailboat, is a actual movement, the manual-winding Valjoux 7734 (now accepted as the ETA Valjoux 7734). Carefully preserved by Switzerland’s Jenny family, who accept endemic the Doxa cast back 1997, and additionally acclimated in the 13 gold pieces of the T.Graph appear beforehand this year, these calibers accept been revised and adapted with Doxa decoration, and affection a 45-hour ability reserve.
The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph in Stainless Animate is deeply attached via screws to the brand’s now-famous “grains of rice” armlet in 316L stainless steel, which is able with a folding brooch with the emblematic Doxa angle attribute and a diver’s addendum for those who ambition to abrasion it over a wetsuit. Available for adjustment on September 2 via the Doxa website, it is priced at $4,900.
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